How to Set Up and Optimize Your Nikon Z8 for Video: A Step-by-Step Guide
The Nikon Z8 is an incredibly versatile and powerful camera, but like any tool, its potential truly shines when customised to fit your unique shooting style. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the steps I take to configure my Nikon Z 8 for video work, ensuring the camera works as seamlessly and efficiently as possible when operating.
From factory reset, I will walk through creating shooting menu banks, optimizing frame rates, and enabling focus peaking, this post covers all the details that help me get the most out of this incredible piece of gear. Whether you’re just getting started or have been using the Nikon Z 8 for a while, these tips will help streamline your workflow and elevate your content creation.
Let’s dive in and explore how to transform your Nikon Z 8 into the perfect tool for your next video project.
Step 1: Customise Folder and File Naming for Easier Post-Production
When starting to configure your camera, start by ensuring you are on the latest firmware of your camera.
How to check the firmware version:
Navigate to the SETUP MENU
Select FIRMWARE VERSION at the bottom of the SETUP MENU
Once I have confirmed I have the latest firmware, I configure the folder naming structure and file names to match my workflow. This step is a game-changer in post-production, making it easier to identify which camera a specific card came from. For instance, I name my folders and files according to the camera’s designation (e.g., “BCAM” and “B01” for my B camera).
This small step can save you hours of time when organising footage later, especially if you’re working on multi-camera shoots.
Step 2: Configure Shooting Menu Banks for Different Scenarios
One of the most helpful tools when operating with the Nikon Z 8 is the ability to configure shooting menu banks. This allows you to quickly toggle between codecs, frame sizes and frame rates.
The Nikon Z 8 is capable of shooting N-RAW 12-bit (NEV), ProRes RAW HQ 12-bit (MOV), ProRes 422 HQ 10-bit (MOV), H.265 10-bit (MOV), H.265 8-bit (MOV), and H.264 8-bit (MP4) in frame sizes all the way from 8k to 1080p.
For this example, I will set up four banks:
8K - H265 10 bit - 24fps - SDR (Flat profile)
4K - H265 10 bit - 24fps - SDR (Flat profile)
4K - H265 10 bit - 60fps - SDR (Flat profile)
4K - H265 10 bit - 120fps - SDR (Flat profile)
Make sure to enable extended menu banks. By enabling the extended menu banks, the camera remembers not just your resolution and frame rate but also your shutter speed and aperture settings for each bank. This makes it incredibly easy to switch between shooting styles.
Step 3: Fine-Tune Key Camera Settings
One of the features of the Nikon Z 8 is the ability to shoot in multiple codecs, frame sizes and frame rates depending on your needs. Below are the settings I use most often as I find that this combination is the perfect balance between file size and versatility in post-production for most of my shooting scenarios.
Picture Control: I use the Flat profile when shooting in H.265. Although N-Log may capture a wider range of dynamic range for post production, I find it much harder to consistently capture the proper exposure in different shooting scenarios. As such, I find that shooting the FLAT profile in the SDR mode much more versatile as I am able to capture more accurate exposures when shooting, ensuring I don’t over or under expose a shot.
Video File Type: I prefer H.265 10-bit for its balance of quality and file size in most shooting conditions.
Frame Rate and Resolution: For interview content, I typically shoot 4k 24fps. For BROLL, I toggle between 8k 24fps, and for slow motion, I toggle between various 4k frame rates from 50fps to 120fps.
White Balance: I rely on Kelvin adjustments for precision in various lighting conditions. In some scenarios, I may also use a white or grey card and take a reading from the location using the Preset Manual menu. Please note that you need to turn off your Remote Grip to enable this feature.
ISO Settings: In most scenarios I am shooting manual between 64 and 4000 ISO. This camera is great in low light so don’t be scared to push your ISO into the higher numbers. Another great feature is the Auto ISO. Auto ISO is invaluable for smooth exposure transitions when moving from a dark location to light location or vice versa.
Step 4: Customize the i Menu for Quick Access
The i menu is one of the most efficient tools for on-the-fly adjustments. I customize it with my most-used settings as follows:
Shooting Menu Banks: Allows you to quickly switch between shooting modes.
Frame Size/Rate: Allows you to switch to other frame sizes or rates that are not in your menu banks. Please note that if you change this setting inside a menu bank, your menu bank will be changed to the new format.
White Balance: Allows you to quickly switch your white balance on the fly.
ISO: Allows you to change your ISO and activate AUTO ISO if desired. You can also set your maximum and minimum ISO levels from this menu when AUTO ISO is activated.
Exposure Compensation: When using AUTO ISO, I use this to adjust the metering on the fly.
Autofocus Mode / Subject Detection: Allows you to quickly switch between auto-focus modes.
Microphone sensitivity: Allows you to quickly set your levels and switch between auto and manual levels as well.
Headphone Levels: Allows you to quickly change your headphone levels.
Focus Peaking: If using manual focus, this allows you to quickly turn on peaking to more easily know if you are in focus. You can set the intensity level as well as focus peaking colour from this menu.
Custom Controls: You can quickly map camera settings to function buttons on your camera.
Vibration Reduction: Having these settings on this menu allows you to quickly change the modes as desired.
This setup lets me quickly tweak settings without digging through menus, keeping me focused on the shoot with quick access to the settings I use most often.
Step 5: Reroute your Video Record Button to the Shutter Release Button
This is a newer addition to my workflow. I have found that by rerouting this button, I am much more comfortably able to hit the record button when operating.
One thing to note with this is that when you want to snap between different elements when using autofocus using single point object tracking, you will want to now use the AF-ON button to switch your focus point versus pressing the shutter down half way. It functions much better this way.
Step 6: Change Power Off Delay Timers
When shooting video, it is inconvenient when your screen continually turns off. I change my Standby timer to infinity. One tradeoff is that your battery will drain faster but you won’t have to worry about your screen turning off when between shots setups.
Step 7: Adjust Autofocus Speeds & Sensitivity
When using autofocus, I set my AF speed to -2 and AF tracking sensitivity to 4. You may want to experiment with this to find what you like best.
Step 8: Turn on Histograms
Turning on histograms is my safety measure when determining exposure. It allows you to accurately see where your highlights and shadows are falling inside your frame. As mentioned, I favour an image on the darker side to ensure all highlights are preserved when exposing an image.
Final Thoughts
By no means is this an exhaustive list of all the potential customizations you can make. What I hope this post did was provide some insight that will make your operating experience that much better.
Happy shooting!